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Diving in Bodrum and Diving Points
Bodrum has made a significant name for itself in Turkish tourism with its yachting, beaches, coves and nightlife but it has also become known for its diving with important diving points and new diving locations opened in September 2001.* The only underwater archaeology museum in Turkey is in Bodrum and is also increasingly drawing people to the region. The most important and interesting diving points around Bodrum are listed as follows:
Big Bango:
It is one of the symbol diving points of the region, with a maximum depth of four metres. It can be reached by sailing 20 minutes from Bodrum. The waters around Bodrum, Gümbet and İstanköy gradually get deeper whereas in the Karaada region the sea bed plunges, with the shallows being 28-32 metres. In some of shallows and on the outskirts you can see pieces of amphorae, even if in small numbers.
It is certain that you will come across large grey mullet, grouper, large rock grouper, octopus and shoals of sargo and sea bream. If you are lucky you even see turtles and barracuda.
Small Bango:
The Küçük (Small) Bango is about 200 metres from the Büyük (Big) Bango. Initially the depth is five to six metres, then increases to eight metres before graduating out to 28-30 metres. All types of life forms the you can see in Büyük Bango can also be found here. These two sties, that are popular with the Bodrum diving schools, are so interesting that they make one say, "Are there this many types and numbers of fish in the Mediterranean Sea?" If you go close you can see clearly from the boat.
Kargı Island:
The island of Kargı is about one and a half hours sail from Bodrum or 500 metres off Akyarlar Point. This island is the closest point to the Greek island of Kos (3.5 sea miles). On the top of the island is a lighthouse. The diving point is the side that faces the gulf, though there are other points suitable for diving. In the area facing towards Kos, at a depth of five to 25 metres, there are pieces of amphorae that are possibly related to a Roman ship wreck from the 4th century AD. The interesting part of diving here is the perpendicular rocks which are towering like hills from the bottom to the surface on the shores, on the hill 50 metres distance from the shores, the shallows out to 17 metres from the surface. The waters off the coast of the island are 20-22 metres in depth, with rocks at 36 metres. Fish here are also plentiful. You can certainly see many shoals of sea bream and barracuda. The only disadvantage to this location for diving are the strong currents at certain times of the year towards the island of Kos.
Köçek Island:
Köçek Island is a sea mile away from the island of Kargı in the direction of Bodrum and has small rocky islets. It is one and a half kilometres from the coves of Akyarlar, Karaincir and Aspat Hill. The advantage of this islet is that there are not many rocks near the surface but around it there are lots of pieces of amphorae from various centuries. The part near the land is 8-10 metres deep, while on the Bodrum-Kargı side it is 20-22 metres and on the Gökova side is 32-34 metres. In the direction of Gökova two iron anchors belonging to the late era are now intermixed with the rocks. At this diving point, where the number of barracuda and silver coloured sea bream are highest, other than the fish you will come across in Kargı shelled sea animals such as triton and pina.
Karaada-Kaçakçı Cove:
This is a small cove at the far end of Karaada island. The diving clubs usually prefer to use this region for their educational classes. It is possible to dive on both points at the end of the cove. The feature of this location is that there is a cave in the cove with its opening one metre under water which runs 40-50 metres inside the island. It is advised to dive with a diving tutor or an expert as the entrance to the cave is narrow. The stalactites in the cave are impressive. Moreover the temperature of this sea is 5º celcius warmer than other waters.
Karaada-Delikli Cave:
The Delikli Caves face in the direction of Kos and are in the centre of that side of Karaada. The depth in the area where the caves are located is 20-25 metres and on the small cove on the other side the depth is as much as 40-45 metres. The entrance to the first cave is 15 metres deep but it is not advisable to enter as its opening is very narrow. The second cave is 20 to 30 metres away from the first and its entrance is quite wide and comfortable to get into. It is at a depth of 12-14 metres and if you look at crevices here it is likely that you will see scorpion fish, crayfish and lobster. At the top of the cave you have a gap of one metre and you can easily get through and get to depth of six and seven metres. What is interesting is that there are air pockets everywhere once you get out of the cave. In the front of the cave, at a depth of 25 metres, you can see seaweed and it is possible that you see two very large grouper.
Karaada-Aksona Point:
Aksona Point was named by the sponge diver that discovered the place first. It is on Karaada Island in the direction of Gulf of Gökova, in other words in the south. Starting from the shore the water is three metres deep, then gradually reaches 20 metres and then further out 40-45 metres over rocky peaks. Apart from seeing archaeological pieces on the bottom, if you are lucky you can also see a wide range of fish, including octopus, grouper, sea bream, sea bass, and barracuda. If you are really lucky can see thornback rays and crayfish. For some months of the year the current is strong and sometimes there is a strong current towards the point.
Yassıkaya Island:
This island is off the south end of Karaada, some 300-400 metres from Aksona Point. The waters facing Karaada and in the north are shallow and, since it is heavily seaweed covered, is not suitable for swimming. On the south east end of the island the water is deeper as rocks drop down in sets while on the south side it is deeper and rockier still. At this point, on almost at all of the dives, you can see lobsters, octopus, see bream, crayfish, sea bream, barracuda and black tail. On some of your dives you will get to see a thornback ray at least three metres long. The divers should pay attention to the strong current on the surface or bottom that sets in from the direction of Knidos.
Orak Island and Point:
This point is in the Gulf of Gökova and is in a one and half hour sail from Bodurm. It is also the furthest point reached for daily diving. The point has an unbelievably beautiful underwater topography for those who like wall diving. You anchor in the small cove right in from the mooring point and can dive on both sides of the point.
The diving at the point facing the Gulf of Gökova is very exciting. In this direction at the 32-34 metre level there a cave covered with purple sponges. It is the dream of all divers to go down at this spot from the Point onwards as it has such interesting underwater wall diving, firstly at 25 metres and then to 65-70 metres. Although there is a not high probability of seeing fish you can still see lobster, sea bass, and 2.5 to five metres long thornback rays.
*Though Bodrum has the most interesting and beautiful diving spots in Turkey, until 24 September 2001 the only areas where diving was permitted was Akyarlar Point and Orak Island. In the Official Gazette issued on this date, as was the case in many other coastal areas of Turkey, the Bodrum Peninsula (barring the area between Gümüşlük and Yalıkavak)was fully opened up to tourism and scuba diving.
WALKING TRAILS ON THE BODRUM PENINSULA
Trail 1. PEDASA (Gökçeler Kalesi-Castle)
The walking path that begins in the north of Bodrum heading to Gökçeler Castle has different alternatives for the return.
Level of difficulty: GB 1 Walk duration: One hour 40 minutes.
Features: The path, which starts with a pleasant slope and has a view of Bodrum, goes through a valley and continues to Gökçeler. At the intersection of the valleys facing the north and south west there is a historic castle and buildings around it that were built by the Leleg.
Trail 2. LELEG HOUSES and PEDASA
From the Gölkırı region of the peninsula you get to Çukurboğazı. Walking through Koca Ören and Evcili Ören you get to Gökçeler Castle. From here you walk back to Bodrum.
Level of difficulty: GB 3 Walk duration: Four hours
Features: The trail gives the opportunity to see settlements from different eras on the peninsula and view the impressive scenery.
Trail 3. PEDESA and GEBE CHURCH
You walk from Gökçeler Castle to the north and climb up to the east. After the Church of Gebe, walk down to Torba or Demire.
Level of difficulty: GB 3 Walk duration: Four hours
Features: The scenery is well worth seeing.
The building known as the Church of Gebe is in fact not a church, having been built as a tomb. It is surrounded with maquis and the path to it is often hidden by the undergrowth.
Trail 4. SANDİMA and PARTİPANAZ ROCK
The walk that starts from Yalıkavak goes through the old village of Sandima and leads to Partipanaz Rock. From the hillside of Karasulu you get to the hills of the village of Geriş and, walking south, you come to the village from the Karakaya hills.
Level of difficulty: GB 1 Walk duration: 1.5 hours
Features: The path leads through natural beauties to the village of Sandima, which allows you to see what life on the peninsula was like in the past as it is abandoned and untouched by progress. There are panoramic views from Sandima. It is worth seeing the Partipanaz Rock, which has traces of ancient ruins around it and a view that is picturesque.
Trail 5. GERİŞ KANAMAŞA HILLS Sandıma, Partipanaz Kayası
Like Trail 4, this walk starts from Yalıkavak and goes through the old village of Sandima, leading to Partipanaz Rock. From the hillside of Karakuzu you get to the hills of village of Geriş, walking to the south you get to the village from the Karakaya hills.
Level of difficulty: GB 3-4 Walk duration: Four hours
Features: The scenery and nature on the walking trial is worth seeing.
Trail 6. TERMERA
You get from the Bağla hills to the village of Mandıra by vehicle. The walk starts from Mandıra and goes to Termera on the Asarlık hills. You return by the same path.
Level of difficulty: GB 2 Walk duration: Two hours
Features: While you walk you come across the foundations of old Leleg buildings. The giant stones of a wall on the north side of the valley are attractive. The ancient Termera consist of the remains of a temple and stone-cut tombs on the top of the Asarlık Hills hidden in a bowl of lower ground. This is a scared place. It is the place where the term "Termera Pain," was coined in mythology due to what happened to the hero of the story of Heracles. The region is marvellous and wild, in keeping with the story.
Trail 7. GİREL and ÖREN KALELERİ (ancient Side)
The walk starts at the crossroad between Yukarı Göl and Dağbelen. After you pass the Girel Courtyard you climb to Karadağ. After you visit the two castles on the west and south on the summit you get down the hill from the west to Dağbelen.
Level of difficulty: GB 3 Walk duration: Three hours
Features: At the start of the trail you go through a historic site near to a Byzantine church that was possibly a ruined temple of Telmissos. There is a legend that the location of the temple in mythology was Oraklı. The Girel Courtyard that comes next is one of the abandoned mountain villages on the mountain. Girel and Ören Castles on the top of the summit of Karadağ were Leleg settlements as part of Side and were later used as castles for protection.
Trail 8. GİDEL COURTYARD
The walk begins at Yukarıgölkı and, from the cistern in Çukur Boğazi (strait), you keep walking towards the west, passing the hills of Oyukludağ and Karadağ bringing you to Gidel Courtyard. From here you head to the village of Dağbelen.
Level of difficulty: GB3 Walk duration: Three hours
Features: The trail is an old one that runs from the north to the south of the peninsula and was used by people on foot or on donkey travelling to mountain villages and cemeteries.
WALKING TRAILS WITH AN OVERNIGHT STAY
Trail 1. The Ancient Kings’ Road Walk
The walk starts from the western end of Bafa Lake, which used to a be the ancient port of the city of Herakleia (Today known as Kapıkırı village) but partly follows the Ancient Kings’ Road to the Beşparmak Mountains (Latmos Mountain). Here you find pre-historic cave pictures, caves that have frescoes from the early Christian era and the ruins of monasteries (Arap Avlusu). The route can be covered in three days and two nights, with camping the preferred way of over nighting.
Level of difficulty: GB 3-4 Walk duration: At least 14 hours.
Features: Throughout the trip there are extraordinary natural beauties and historic sites.
(the text was taken from the website www.bodrum-bodrum.com)
There are other walking trails recommended
Trail 1: A trip through the mandarin fields within the triangle of the villages Dereköy, Yalıkavak and Yayaköy. On this walk you get to see ancient stone-cut tombs, a church from the Byzantine era and three miniature pyramid-shaped tombs. Also on this trek you can go to Sivri Kaya (Pointed Rock). At the most will take four hours.
Trail 2:You can see ruins of another castle by starting walking from the village of Kızılağaç to the east of Bodrum and getting to the İçmeler district from there. As this walk ends by the shores of the Aegean Sea there is no reason for you not to go for a swim in the cool waters. In the region you can see ruins of Theangela dating from the Roman era that also bears traces of Hellenistic times. This ancient settlement is to the north east of Yalıçiftlik. If you begin walking one kilometre off the Yalıçiftlik road it would be easy to get there in two hours by following the forest path. The return trip will take approximately 1.5 hours and if you want you can swim in one of the most unspoilt coves of on the peninsula.
The Bodrum Sailing Regatta
The gulets are not are bulky, slow or unable to raise their sails without the assistance of a motor. In order to prove this, every year on the third Sunday of October a race of wooden sailing yachts is held, with hundreds of boats taking part in the competition.
The contest is organised by the ERA Bodrum Sailing Club. The Bodrum Cup, as well as being an event that the showcases Turkish yachting tourism, also has an educational value, where charter boat captains and crews develop their talents and improve their knowledge.
Another aspect that has increased interest in the race is that, apart from extending the yacht charter season, it also allows passengers on the yachts to participate as well.
The race regularly attracts some one hundred foreign and international yachts in separate categories and is conducted over fives legs. The most beautiful coves of the Blue Cruise are used as stopping points for the night during the race.
Another dimension added to the excitement of the racing is that every evening the boats anchor next to each other, the crews joining in song and lifting a glass at sunset in the name of friendship.
The race creates an unforgettable image of Bodrum as the horizon is full of sails of the yachting fleet.
THE BODRUM GULETS
Throughout history and right up to the present day, Bodrum has been prominent in shipping.
This may be why the only museum displaying underwater wrecks is in the Bodrum Castle. The most important piece of the museum is the wreck of an ancient merchant ship. The model on display also shows the cargo of the sunken vessel.
These lands have produced many famous captains. Captain Skylax from Karyanda (Gündoğan) served in the Persian fleet for many years according to the historian Herodotus, winning many victories against the Greeks. Not satisfied merely sailing in the Mediterranean Sea, Skylax travelled all the way to the Indian Ocean. His notes on his travels in the Mediterranean and other seas for long served as a guide to other seafarers. By compiling these notes the first known book on navigation was brought produced, entitled "Skylax’s Borders". Alexander the Great used these notes as a pilot for his fleet.
Later came Turgut Reis from the village of Karatoprak in Bodrum (now named Turgutreis in honour of its most famous son). From being a shepherd he rose to the command of the Ottoman Navy.
Almost all coves on the peninsula where once the site of shipyards for the wooden boats made by the hand and the labour of the Bodrum masters. İçmeler, Çitflik, Tavşan Burnu, Gündoğan, even Gümüşlük and Yalıkavak were once the birthplace of Bodrum’s famous boats. Even today, in some places such as at İçmeler, the old shipyards are still in use.
The gulets, which evolved from the tirhandil boats built by the first inhabitants of Bodrum, the Carians, are today seen both in Turkish waters and around the world.
The gulets were firstly used for fishing and sponge diving. However, since these boats were both fast and had good manoeuvring capacity against pirates, they soon spread as far as the Antilles. The gulets further evolved according to the seas they sailed on. In the Black Sea, in order to increase their cargo capacity, the gulets were given deeper hulls and larger holds, while in Bodrum they were built were lower and closer to the water as they were used for fishing and sponge hunting.
However, as the economy changed in the region so did the purpose of the gulets and now they carry tourists to the most beautiful coves of the world.
As tourism developed so they did gulets. They become more luxurious, installing large cabins with toilets, showers, air-conditioners, mini-bars and large beds.
German Version
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